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Berwick-upon-Tweed
We left the Lakes, and the tortuous driving, and made our way directly across the Pennines -- more windswept ferny fells -- through picturesque villages like Alston and Nine Banks. Picturesque, perhaps, but you'll note there are no pictures, as our Quaint-o-meter had red-lined days ago.


View northeast from atop the Pennines


Road narrows...
Brit-Zen koan: How do you keep to the left when a one lane road narrows?
It takes more than empty quaintness to float our jaded boats, I guess, and even Hexham's crooked streets and ancient abbey didn't touch us. There is something rather sad in the turning of ancientness into a tool for winkling money off visitors. We found ourselves unable to find a place to stop, and so we returned our car early, and found our way into the center of Newcastle via their lovely Metro -- what a concept! a convenient and fairly priced means for getting from the airport to the train station.

Due to my readings, I was attracted to Berwick-upon-Tweed, an intermediate stop between Newcastle and Edinburgh right on the border. Sensing that the travel goddess might favor us with appropriate accomodations there, we entrained and found ourselves three-quarters of an hour later, stepping out into the relatively untouristed but nevertheless historic seaside enclave on the Scottish border. A B&B immediately beckoned, as did an excellent Italian dinner an hour later.

18th C. Guard Station in Berwick
Berwick-upon-Tweed has been a pawn in the centuries-old war between England and Scotland, and so a city wall was indispensible. Locals call it "Brrr'k". I would have been happy to explore the environs but my traveling partners were eager to travel onward to the bright lights of Edinburgh.


Travel along with us!

Michael Potts, webster
updated 16 July 2001 : 9:59 Caspar (Pacific) time
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