| trouble: water |
Water Overview Overview Manual Index login |
TheoryA submersible pump in the well pumps water as needed and available to the 10,000 gallon tank. A submersible pump in the tank pressurizes the distribution system to 30-40 psi if there is sufficient water in the tank. Power for both pumps travels in an underground cable from a system switch on the south side of 14990 Caspar Road. After pressurization at the 10K gallon tank, the water is metered and distributed via separate runs to each unit. There are cut-off valves for each unit before the meters inside the greenhouse, and at the entry to each unit. The Solar Cottage also has subsystem cutoffs for each major water branch. There is a simple logic system that determines the pumping, implemented with float switches in the well and tank and the pressure switch. The heirarchy is as follows:
It is prudent to check the level of water in the 10K gallon tank periodically. It should be within 11 to 16 inches of the top of the tank. Checking the level of the water in the well is presently difficult, as it involves moving the heavy well cover. Electronic well-level reporting is planned. Likeliest TroubleThe system is fault tolerant due to the oversized pressurization vessels (Wellmates). Temporarily reduced pressure at the tap may result from simultaneous demand at several units, but this is rare. Prolonged reduced pressure suggests a problem at the tank pump, and should be checked. |  | |
| 1 | Check the pressure gauge on the manifold supplying water to the meters. It should be between 30 and 40 psi. If low, step 2. If not, suspect a cut-off valve on the system branch experiencing low pressure. |  |
| 2 | Check the water level in the 10K gallon tank. If it is between 11 and 16 inches down, it's normal, and the tank pump is implicated; proceed to step 3. If it is low, proceed to step 6. | |
| 3 | Check the pressure switch beside the Cycle Stop (red topped) valve. Try lifting the external lever on the switch box; this may start the pump. It may be necessary to remove the grey plastic switch cover by loosening the captive nut. Carefully check the contacts for foreign matter. (Earwigs like the warmth.) If the contacts are clean and open, use the plastic box cover to click them shut. If the pump starts, proceed to step 5. |  |
| 4 | If the pump does not start, suspect power interruption. Using a multimeter, test the incoming power; it should be ~240 volts. If it is not, suspect a fault in the underground line; troubleshoot the power supply from the system switch on the south side of 14984. If power is present, suspect pump failure. Get help. | |
| 5 | Monitor the pressure gauge on the manifold. It should pressurize the system to something approaching 40 psi within a few minutes. If not, suspect a distribution system leak. Check the meters for unusual or unexpected use patterns or volumes, and get help. |  |
| 6 | If the water level in the tank is below 16" from the top of the tank, suspect a well problem. Carefully move the well cover and check the water level in the well. It should be at least one foot deep. If there is adequate water, remove the cover of the electrical box and check the presence of power. Note that power will only be present if the upper tank float switch is low. If power is present but the pump is not running, suspect pump failure; get help. If power is not present, suspect an electrical fault in the float switches or the underground line between the tank electrical box and the well. | |
Adjusting the system pressure | |
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13 May 2021: Jim and I adjusted the range (left panel) up approximately 6-8 psi | |