Makawao, Maui 15 April 2013 : Caspar Institute

Starting the Journey Home

The windy road to Caspar began down the main highway (at right) from Kipahulu to Kaupo, the beginning of an even windey-er, narrower, and (for Rochelle) more harrowing drive that the relatively more civilized Hana Highway. Not far beyond this tunnel through the trees, we encountered five horses being walked by men in two jeeps. We and the horses did not approve.

Very soon, the green begins to dry and thin out, and beyond Kaupo, the next valley beyond Kipahulu, the island is practically desert. Harsh young lava forces a one-lane road to the very edge of the cliff.

An eartquake in 2006 dislodged big bits of cliff along the shoreline section and damaged the bridges between Kipahulu and Hana, cutting the Kipahulu folks off from civilization for several months while road crews, at top Hawaiian speed, repaired the road.

Beyond Kaupo the road gets wider, but the pavement disappears. Five miles farther on, we begin to see, in the form of smooth pavement, the return of civilization.

Lavender Farm

We stopped by Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm for a scone and tea with honey. Everything, including the port-a-potties, is lavender scented. Who cares if it's feminizing? The world could do, in my view, wit' some more of dat.

The lavender was on hiatus, but the Protea were showing off. There was also a chameleon that a woman was carrying around -- maybe her pet? The poor thing just wanted to chill, but she kept trying to push it and prod it into poses so she could take pictures of it on Jade Plants, etc.

They had a money goddess there too, with pennies between her toes. Despite what comes next, I tend to think we haven't handled that well, either.

What do you see there on the right? The shadow of a palm tree? An Escher?

It's the cement sidewalk leading to Mama's Fish House. (If you click, get ready to turn your computer volume down!)

First Mama sent out an amuse bouche of Haiku Tomatoes and Hana Ginger Bisque that I'm going to have to duplicate, we enjoyed Seared Ahi on Manoa Lettuce with the aformentioned tomatoes and shaved fennel, Opakapaka cheeks, and Maui Onion Soup. On point, fresh, one of our three best meals.

Dinner with Toes and his family. Awesome flavors, conscious choices. Thank you, Tara. Imani is an intensely contained source of enlightened parenting. While Rochelle read, Toes-Irie got up on his feet and stood for long enough for me to fetch and start my camera. Walking very soon!

Once again, night and breakfast in the Jasmine Room of the Gomes's ancestral home in Makawao, also known as Hale Ho'okipa. Flying starts at 11:30 in the morning. Despite the richness and variety, we're ready to come home.