Anini Beach 26 July 2017

Chad and family went kayaking in Hanalei, and Rochelle and I went out front, where the water was mid-tide and lovely. Lots of sun. I took a long snorkel, but the seeing is disappointing: Anini's reef is nearly dead. I saw as many as five fish at a time (rarely) when in the past, fish were everywhere, and I could reliably go out and see something new within fifteen minutes.

This curious (or defensive?) boxfish eyed me very carefully. The fish that remain here are very skittish. They are small, and won't let you get very close.

These were the first fish I have seen close to the shore, over the sand -- about half the small school. I remember large schools close to the shore, along with small rays and lots of needle fish. 

Kathleen's verdict: the snorkeling at Anini is disappointing, compared to what she remembered. I agree. I'm hoping for some better viewing on Friday, when we go down along the Na Pali coast.

Rochelle and I drove into Kapaa, to the restaurant rated #1, JO2. Our superb server, Jeremiah, told us he worked there because he loved the food. We did too. Several things on the menu I'd never had before, and a very tempting "Early Bird Special" prix fixe dinner ... so we mixed and matched, and had a feast reminiscent of some of France's best.

Upper left, a salad of local greens; clustered center and right, the three levels of the Seafood Sampler, three varieties of locally caught fish in sauces well-suited to their flavors; bottom left, the main course, Ono with vegetables in a coconut milk and wasabi sauce; bottom right: Makaleha River fern shoots in a yellow tomato tea with artichoke and root vegetables (surprisingly peppery, like asparagus) ... and finally, far right, Valhrona chocolate crème brulée with mocha ice cream and grated chocolate cake. Yum!

On the way home in the gloaming, the sun setting over the middle of Kauai as we came across the highlands between Kealia and Anahola put on a spectacular show.